I have had Wahoo turbo trainers for the last few years. The first being the Kickr Snap which worked well but its resistance would fluctuate quite a bit depending on tyre pressure and air temperature.
I decided in January 2019 to get a wheel off Kickr 18 as I really like riding on Zwift and the wheel off meant that I could almost fit and forget.
Within a couple of weeks the unit began to display the clunking and clicking that many units had suffered. The flywheel was also running with a bit of a wobble. A replacement arrived a few days after raising a support ticket and submitting a short video of the issue.
I have been using that replacement ever since and have covered almost 2000km on it for almost the last year and a half.
Last week it started to make a few slight noises that I didn’t like the sound of and a vibration could be detected through the pedals. The noise was a slight click and a rubbing/squeal from the belt drive. The squeal was noticeable when the flywheel was coming to a stop.
As it turns out is seems that the noises it had been making had been developing for some time but as it was gradual I didn’t really notice straight away until it was pretty bad. I didn’t realise this until it was fixed.
Given the current world wide lockdown situation all makes of turbo trainers are in high demand and I didn’t want to be in a situation of being without a trainer. Or even worse receive an equally broken replacement as a few users on social media have reported. Wahoo are also no longer sending out the DIY repair kit (K118).
Now to save you reading on I have diagnosed and fixed the issue with parts that are readily available and using tools that I had.
There are lots of great videos online that show the Kickr taken apart so I haven’t bothered to show that.
Kickr have acknowledged there is an issue with some units. It looks like my replacement unit also fell within the window of the dodgy batch.
Notice:
Taking apart YOUR trainer is at YOUR risk. I take no responsibility for any damage or injury that may occur if you do what I did. Please presume that any DIY work may void your warranty.
Tools:
To remove the cover and get access to the pulley you will need a 2.5mm hex key, and two differently sized Philips head screw drivers to remove three cover retaining screws.
Hex keys were needed to remove the original M6 and M5 two bolts. 10mm and 8mm sockets were needed to fasten in my new bolts. I also used a punch to help fit the new key.
A torque wrench was also used to ensure the new bolts were snug but not too tight.
Bolts:
Once of you have access to the pulley wheel and belt tensioner. The pulley is held on with a M6 12mm bolt and the tensioner is held in place with a M5 12mm bolt. The tensioner is moved up and down with a long bolt. I used a marked to identify where the centre of the bolt was located. The tensioners M5 bolt was back off and the tensioning bolt was unwound with a 2.5mm hex key to remove the tension on the belt drive. The belt was then removed from the pulley.
Both the M6 and M5 bolt have washers that are deformed during fitting. In order to avoid this the replacement bolts were ordered, M6 x 12mm and M5 x 16mm with flanged heads and a larger M6 18mm diameter washer.
In the Wahoo repair kit K118 the bolt supplied for the pull wheel is a high tensile 10.9 flange steel hex which will take 16Nm. I originally used a black stainless bolt as pictured and torqued up to 10Nm but have since sourced the 10.9 spec bolts and have replaced with a 16Nm torque setting.
The Key:
When the pulley was removed the key simply fell out. I found it was undersized when I measured it so was never going to fit. 5 x 5 x 12mm replacement parallel keys were ordered from Amazon. You can get boxes that contain multiple sizes but you’ll only need the 5 x 5 x 12mm ones.
This is culprit if you have the banging or clicking sound.
Bearings:
The flywheel rotates on two doubled seal 6003 bearings from NSK. Both popped out easily enough when the flywheel and axel were removed. The flywheel side fit is much tighter. I have read some reports that this bearing needs a bit of coaxing to come out. It’s certainly a tighter fit than the other but I didn’t have to resort to hammering it out.
Both of the bearing looked OK and span freely but as they were out I decided to replace them as they did have signs of corrosion.
The two SKF 6003 replacements cost £5.66 each. I could have got them cheaper if I searched around a bit but I wanted them fast.
When they arrived I placed one (still in its plastic bag) in the freezer for a couple of hours. This was to shrink it very slightly in size so I could refit into the flywheel side recess with ease. The flywheel side had a tighter fit.
The bearings in the pulley tensioner are 6001 ZZ bearings. They have a metal shield that can’t be removed in order to inspect/regrease. Mine seemed fine but I imagine that the two that sit in the tensioner would be both difficult to get out and back in without the correct tools.
Putting it back together:
Bearings replaced with the frozen one dropped straight into the flywheel sided without issue.
Flywheel axel greased and refitted. I used Phil’s Waterproof Grease.
Key hammered into the keyway with a little Loctite 243. I used a hammer and punch to send this home making sure it was tight and as far back as it would go.
Pulley was refitted and bolted in place. The M6 flanged bolt was given some Loctite 243 and the washer refitted before doing it up to 16Nm as recommended in the Wahoo DIY repair instructions.
The pulley tension bolt was replaced with the M5 flanged bolt. I decided to use another M6 washer to help spread the load further, although a wide M5 washer would have been better. Again this was given some Loctite 243 before bolting it up. This bolt just needs to be tight enough to prevent slippage.
The belt was then fitted and the tension returned to its original position ensuring the tension was good. Both trainers I have had apart have the tension set at about halfway as seen in the image above.
I then tried spinning the flywheel by hand to ensure nothing was binding. Unfortunately the rubbing/squealing was still present. Changing the tension didn’t make a difference. A little research led to a fan belt video on youtube. As the video suggested you could diagnose a belt issue with water. I filled a water bottle with some tap water, protected the electronic elements of the trainer and poured the water onto the inside of the belt as I rotated the flywheel. Once wet the noise disappeared indicating it was a belt issue.
The water also flushed out a load of fine black grains of rubber that must have been from the belt. A bit of Aerospace 303, that I use for dry top latex seals, was sprayed on the inner side of the belt and excess wiped off.
Did it work. Yes, no banging clunking, squealing. The only noise is from my bikes drive train. I have completed numerous rides on Zwift without issue including a jaunt up Alpe du Zwift today.
No issues at all.
For the parts required I spent under £30.
I have since repaired another Kickr 18 with the parts I have sourced.
UPDATE:
30th November 2020. Six months on and the Kickr is working as it should. It remains quiet and bearings seem to be OK. I have had the cover off a few times over the last few months to check on the Woodruff key and it hasn’t budged at all.
3rd January 2021. The trainer has been used more and more over the last month as outdoor cycling due to Covid and the weather has ceased. I completed the Rapha Festive 500 cycling over 500km on the Kickr during between Christmas Eve and New Year’s Eve. The trainer remains quiet.
1st January 2022. As per above. Not a single issue to date with no further adjustment or tweaking required.
However in February 2022 the Kickr started to produce a click when warmed up. I know that once there is an issue it is best to investigate straight away. A dry bearing on the drive side was at fault. As the trainer was apart I replaced both bearings and fitted a new key. A repair after several thousand KMs is pretty good. It is now back to normal with even better Enduro bearings fitted.
Repair Packs:
I do have enough spares to do the bolts and keys for a handful of trainers. If you are in the UK and are interested in getting hold of some please drop me a line in the comments section below.
Great write up. Just a couple of comments. The pulley bolt is M6, not M8 as stated part way through your writeip. As well, there is a very specific Loctite product made for keyway installs, and it is much better suited than regular blue thread loctite. It’s Loctite 660.
https://www.amazon.ca/6-ML-QUICK-METAL-PRESSFIT-REPAIR/dp/B000O03DK0
Hi, thanks for the M8 spot. Thats been changed. I used 243 as I want the key/keyway to come apart in the future if needed. As my new keys are sized correctly its more belt and braces than anything. 660 is a metal replace and is high strength which may prevent the parts coming releasing in the future.
This was an awesome read. I had the high pitched squeal and rubbing noise. I opened mine up to find a bent tension bolt and a tension plate that was not locked into place(thus the bent bolt). I was able to fix that which seems to have eliminated the squealing. I still have a rhythmic rubbing sound which I will try the aerospace 303 on. Wahoo has been pathetic on their customer service. Literally my only option is to pay shipping both ways, parts($.50), labor and be out a trainer for a month. I’m hoping the 303 works because I like the kickr but I am done with Wahoo. Maybe if they learn what customer service means, I might give them a shot but I doubt that will happen based on my interaction with them. So thanks again!
Hey. Great blog. Looks like I will be going down same route. So this is a valuable resource. Can you confirm the size of the bearings so that I can by the correct ones
Thanks
Michael
6003 for pulley/fly wheel. One each side.
I got two doubled seal 6003 from SKF.
https://amzn.to/2CAcefU
How do you remove the 6003z’s from the flywheel once it’s removed? Yours sound like they just fell out, while mine definitely seem to need some force but I don’t want to hammer away. Thanks
On another recent repair one was loose, the flywheel side. I gently tapped the other one out. It wasn’t tight at all. They certainly are not a tolerance fit.
I got to this point having changed the bolt and key as you described. I chickened out on the hammering. My kickr was bought on eBay and also was out of warranty. So two months ago I took a video showing the bolt wobbling on the axis of the flywheel. They sent a courier to collect and two days later I got a new kickr 2018. Dropped dead with surprise.
Awesome thanks, I ordered some so when they come in I’ll get them to pop out. Seems like a cheap easy way to eliminate that from the list of things that make noise.
Any tips for getting the 6003z’s out of the flywheel? Did you have to hammer them out?
Hi. The bearing sits in the stand rather in the flywheel. Both just slipped out when I removed the flywheel.
Excellent article,
I have the exact issue and I also had discovered that cleaning the belt mitigates the noise temporary.
After removing the pulley, how did you manage to remove the axle and the flywheel? Mine is stuck and doesn’t appear to move outward.
Finally, I want to add that I will experiment with a new belt since I am tired to clean it every 2 weeks.
I found one compatible here:
https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p650058/940PJ/370J-Major-Brand-Poly-V-Multiple-Ribbed-Belt-940mm/37-inch-Length/product_info.html
I will post once the belt arrive here.
Best Regards
Good to see a belt can be had for not very much cash. For the axle once the key dropped out the flywheel and axle cam e out without issue. It wasn’t a tight fit at all. The flywheel is pretty heavy and needs to be pulled out dead straight. You may need to give it a bit or it may need to be persuaded.
I would to check, have you had the belt replaced? Glad if you can share the result.
Hi Eduardo, great resource. My kicked had been rumbling despite the wahoo key fix. I’m going to order a new belt drive but interested to know how many ribs on the belt drive that you ordered? I notice the link gives different options. I’ve just taken my kickr 18 apart and put it back together so I don’t lose any bits and would probably count the ribs wrong anyway!
Can you confirm belt tensioner. Seemed mention 2mm and m2.5.
It’s a 2.5mm hex bolt, fits a 2.55 Hex key.
Several hundred miles now completed on the repaired Kickr. No issues at all. Everything is working as it should, with the only noise coming from the 105 drive train.
Thanks. Did all as described except for bearings no problem following your excellent I nfo. New woodruff key much snugger. Better but not cured. When I look at the bolt without the pulley and then with the pulley and belt under tension in both situations the bolt is not turning true but wobbling along its axis. I cannot see that that could happen unless the nearest bearing was worn by the eccentric load on the pulley.
Thanks, glad it was useful.
It could well be that you have a damaged bearing. Worth changing it f you can.
Thanks. When the pulley was off did the axle knock out to the other side through the bearings easily
Yes super easy on one once the key and pulley was off it drop straight through. A little tricky on the other kickr I repaired. A little persuading with a drift did the job.
Not finding the 5x5x12 woodruff key… Anyone have a link where I can buy one? Thanks in advance.
Amazon have them.
I bought from judd racing. No more expensive. Likely to be high quality. Came 48 hrs. Was nice snug fit. Easier to fit as rounded ends self aligns.
It’s been 5 months since I carried out the repair. I decided to pull the Kickr apart to see how things are holding up and everything is A1.
would replacing the belt for a new one and before putting it in apply the aerospace spray work well ? my belt is old .
The spray should only be needed if the new built is noisy.
SUPERB! Really appreciate the effort taken to document your experience. Will be a great service to all of us Kickr users out there. It was something that struck me, there’s very little information by way of service providers in Ireland who provide servicing of these units. Given that they cost nearly €1k new, Wahoo should have a distribution model set up for after sales servicing.
Hey Unsponsored. Really appreciate this article.
I’m trying to get the flywheel off, but it appears very stuck. After removing the bolt and washer that secures it, I tried to pull the flywheel out (dead straight), but to no avail. I even tried using a slotted screw driver to attempt to drive a wedge into the tiny edge gap between the main body and the flywheel. It simply wont budge at all.
The only thing I can think of is to try to heat it so that it expands enough to move it, but it don’t want to risk warping it. Is there a trick to getting this thing off that I’m missing? Also, do you know where I could purchase a replacement flywheel if worst comes to worst?
The key needs to be removed from the shaft. This will stop the flywheel being removed.
Hi. Between the internal face of the wheel and the bearing that is inside, there is a piece, kind of a “washer”, very thin. Mine is deformed and is the origin of the noises my kickr is making. Anyone knows where I get a new one? I tried but I didn’t found any until now, to be honest I don’t know how to search for it.
Thank you 🙂
The washer is a wavy washer. It’s not flat. It is designed to take up any slop in the side to side motion of the axle.
Any idea on the size of the wavy washers? There also seems to be another washer on the other side by the metal serrated pulley. Any idea of this size?
Excellent post, thanks. I just replaced my bearings after reading this and it’s a huge difference. Everything seems perfect, virtually silent and no vibrations. One note of caution- I over tightened the pully bolt and the head sheared off. I was lucky in the recovery – I extracted the broken one quite easily with a reverse drill bit.
Hi,
Loved your documentation. A grade.
With regards to the pulley tensioner 6001 ZZ bearings, did you need a qty of 1 or 2? i think its 2 as the 6001 ZZ bearings are 8mm each and the belt is around 15/16mm
There are a couple in there. I didn’t remove mine. Seemed ok. Would need a bearing puller to remove.
there are two bearings NSK6001Z required. They will have to be pressed into the aluminum bushing/housing that make up the tensioner pulley. i just replaced mine as the inner bearing was the source of my noisy kickr.
Did you have a tool or press that allowed you to remove/replace the bearings?
Does anyone know the exact type/dimensions of the long tensioning bolt? I stripped mine over many attempts to find the perfect tension, now stuck with a loose belt and no way of addressing. Thank you.
The bolt is a m2.5 x 45mm in length. A bit longer or shorter would also work without issue.
Is there a thread spec?
hi,
great article, could you confirm if this is the same repair and bearings for the kicker core?
thanks
Hi,
I believe the process is very similar as both units use the same parts/setup.
Appreciate the quick response, my Kickr core started to make some unusual noises today, a squeally type noise, and a clicking…thinking it could be the bearing, did send a support request to Wahoo as well see if they have any idea
thanks again
May just be the key. It’s worth have a look.
Is there a substitute for the Aerospace 303? Is Aero 303 the sane as Armor All? I just want to make sure I dont use the wrong substance and create a slipping issue by accident… thank you for the great writeup
From what I have read Armor All is a similar product. Both are water based and don’t leave a greasy film. Aerospace 303 works well though. I haven’t used Armor all in this kind of application.
Really useful- many thanks. Going to try this 2018 Kickr recently started clicking and all Wahoo will offer is replacement reconditioned unit which could be ‘pig in a poke’ from what I’ve read. Looking at your illustrations, realised you had a map of coquetdale under the bolts- if that’s your home turf, wonder if you might be open (post l;ockdown!) to a visit from a man from Prudhoe carrying a half dismantled kickr if I mess it up!
Actually based on Teesside. Had the map from taking photos of the Naughty Northumbrian MTB Enduro in 2019. I do get to Ryton fairly often with work.
Would certainly appreciate a more expert eye than mine on what’s causing the clicking rather than me just assuming it’s a loose woodruff key and making the wrong diagnosis! Would be happy to get the cover off and bring it down to Ryton (post lockdown) if you had a few minutes to look it over.
Awesome! I’ve been looking for diffrent replacement for the belt. Probably it will work with a ususall belt for cars as long you can fix the same lenght? My Kickr belt seems to touch the plastic cap and I will soon test the kickr with a smaller belt. I will update after test. OK?
You can pick up the same belts cheaply online. They are used in many applications.
What is the length of the belt! Or part number? Seems I’ve got one which doesn’t fit!
hi, can you send a number of a replacement belt of kick v18?
Hi, I believe my Kickr has this problem now after around 2 years of use. How much are the packs?
Hi – i also live in Teesside and was wondering if you have one of the Kickr 18 key repair kits i could purchase from you?
Have you got a repair pack left? If so, would like one pls. Thx Tony
Yes. I have dropped you an email.
Hi, thank you so much for this article its been really useful! Do you happen to have any spare parts left for the repair?
Yes I have some left. I’ll drop you an email.
Cheers, I’ve just updated my profile and have added an email address.
Did he pulley come off the shaft easily ? Tried doing a bearing replacement on a kickr core but the pulley had to come off using a puller ( an old school crank puller ) This should have set the alarm bells going as I cant get the pulley back on. They seem to have made this an interference fit now and there is no easy way to align it and apply enough force to get it back on. Looks like I will have to send mine to wahoo and pay a huge bill.
Mine just pulled off. The key and bolt keep it in place. Have you removed the key before putting the pulley back on?
tried both ways. worried that because the pulley is so tight, without the key you’d never align it right. you’d certainly never twist the the pulley. Final try will be putting the pulley in the oven first to expand it !
It’s only soft metal. You have to be super careful heating it up in the oven. A hairdryer might be a good first step. All at your own risk of course.
used a heat plate thing at work. Managed to get it back on with the use of a persuader stick. SHame the origional drumming is still there so clearly the bearing swap didnt help
https://www.unsponsored.co.uk/press/wahoo-kickr-removing-the-pulley-wheel/
The replacement key is often rounded at the ends rather than square ended like the original. This makes a bit easier to line it up as it corrected itself
Very true. All mine are curved as shown in the images.
Hi, Thank you for a clear analysis of the problem and solution. I tried the repair on my Kickr 2018 but have run into problems removing the bearings. When i tried to reassemble some components they dont seem to fit. I fear i may have made a mistake. Do you have a repair service of can you direct me to one? Regards Andrew
I’m not aware of anyone offerings. Service. I certainly don’t. Which bits don’t fit?
Hi, very useful write up. Do you happen to have any of the repair kits left? I’ve replaced bearings recently but mine has started to become noisy again !!
Hi, I’m interested in the parts if you still have any available. I had to take mine to bits a couple of times and have come to all the same conclusions. Would be handy not to have to buy bulk.
Cheers, Allan
Hi there Unsponsored.
I’d like to buy a kit too. Assuming the parts fit in a Kickr 17 also. Which I think they do. Uk based too.
Great post. Thank you.
Fabulous post – super clear instructions.
If you have any kits left I would be very interested in buying one please.
I’m in the UK too.
Many thanks,
Anthony
Hi there, I am at the step of removing the flywheel. I have removed the pulley and key. I am unable to pull the flywheel out and hitting the shaft from the pulley side is not working. Do you have any suggestions? PB Blaster down the shaft of the flywheel? Upon removing the pulley my internals were extremely dirty.
Sounds like your bearings might be stuck on the shaft. Do you get any movement at all?
I have the same issue. The flywheel is stuck.
Another problem is that I damaged the thread inside the pulley when I was trying to remove it. I used a normal crank removal tool but the resistance was very high and the thread got destroyed. Is it possible to buy the pulley anywhere? Do you happen to know if Wahoo offers such spare parts for sale?
Bart
Wahoo don’t have parts such as this listed. You could retap and or helicoil.
Not sure how you could used a crank removal tool.
Well, there is a thread inside the pulley. A crank puller fits perfectly.
In my case, the pulley did not want to move from the axle by any other means 🙁
The pulley wheel is made from a super soft alloy. Far too easy to strip the threads.
I had to hit the shaft pretty hard. I put the bolt back into the end of the shaft first, then hit it with a 2 pound sledge hammer. I bought my unit 2nd hand and someone had gone in before me and put loctite on all the parts. I had a real issue getting the aluminum pulley off the shaft too. I layed the trainer with the flywheel side down and used 2 large screwdrivers from opposite sides between the pulley and the trainer. Hammered them in a little at a time and it popped off. I buggered up the backside of the pully before I went at it from 2 opposite sides.
Hi,
I have the exact same issue. Do you still have some repair pack left? If so, can you send me one please? Thanks in advance.
Milos
Great write up! Lots of grinding noises on my kickr 18… had a couple of silent weeks but returned with a vengeance today! I’d be interested in buying a spares pack if you have one?
Hi, I’ve just won a Wahoo Kickr V4 on Ebay that is described as ‘Still works just makes a horrendous noise!’. I suspect what you have described and hoping you might still have some ‘parts kits’ available? Obviously happy to pay postage if there is a secure way to exchange details. Cheers, Kev
Have dropped you an email. At this time I have a couple of kits left.
I tried to service my Kickr following this and the K18 guide…. when re-attaching the pulley, before getting anywhere near the 16nm, the bolt snapped….
Any recommendations on what to do? How can I get the bolt out, oddly enough I felt good about what I did up to re-attaching anything, gutted really.
Sorry to hear that. Always a risk. To be safe at 16nm the bolt needs to be of at least 10.9 spec. To get the bolt out you can use an extractor something like – https://www.screwfix.com/p/bolt-extractor-set-5-pieces/1112v
Doing things slowly and carefully is the key. You are best centre punching the end of the broken bolt before using the extractor. If this isn’t successful you could call on the help of a local engineering firm.
Funny you recommended that – it’s exactly what I did and I found it quite easy to come out too. A nifty to skill to learn as I’ve had bolt issues in the past, despite the inconsistent reviews on that site, patience is key and those extractors work! Centre punch –> Drilling from smallest drill upwards – gently hammer in the extractor and came out a breeze…. I was quite delighted with the outcome, I was dreading it.
Anyway, I completed putting it back together, so basically a clean mostly and new grease really, then putting it back…. it worked until today. The clanging noise is back, so I’m thinking it’s the key? It did come out relatively easily… so I’m assuming it’s just fallen loose(ish) again. Any chance you have any of them spare?
While I’m going to re-do it… maybe another link the new 6003’s I need that works with Prime, the one in the article isn’t gonna show up until the 23rd of April for me… can I just search ‘SKF 6003’ and that would be correct.
Great that it worked out. The original keys are, in the few I have replaced, are very very slightly undersized. We are talking 100th of a mm but it is enough. Any 6003 bearing will do the trick but avoid the shielded ones (metal seals) as they aren’t serviceable.
I do have repair kits left, which have the correct spec bolt, washer and key.
Would you be able me details for those repair pieces please? Payment method and addresses etc.
Thanks
Have dropped you an email.
hi guys great site. I have a question as I am very desperate. My Kickr Core is not sending performance data even though the connection with Bluetooth is very good. no data is displayed on the Wahoo app or in Zwift. Can I repair the Bluetooth sensor in the Kickr? Greetings Stefan
Hi, There are a couple of things to check:
Switch off/disconnect all other bluetooth devices nearby to reduce interference
Do you have the flashing lights on the kickr?
Does the Core have the latest firmware updates?
If the unit has failed then it is a job for Wahoo.
Have you tried ANT+
hi guys great site. I have a question as I am very desperate. My Kickr Core is not sending performance data even though the connection with Bluetooth is very good. no data is displayed on the Wahoo app or in Zwift. Can I repair the Bluetooth sensor in the Kickr? Greetings Stefan
all other Bluetooth sources are switched off. the lights are on. the latest firmware is installed. Ant + does not exist
Hi, Doesn’t sound great. Do you have any other devices you could try and connect to the Core? Just to definitely confirm its the unit. I’m afraid it sounds like it needs to go back. They don’t sell spares, swapping out the electronics would be really quick and simple.
I’ve tested various devices with it. The result was always the same. Performance data was not displayed. If it’s the electronics, Wahoo could replace it. what are your experiences?
I have had gear go back for mechanical issues and changed without issue. Wait time wasn’t bad, a week or so in each case but was well before the pandemic.
Hi. Great write! My Kickr18 has started making a clunking noise which I can feel through the pedals every 6 pedal revolutions or so. It’s also making the belt noise so going to have a go at the repairs. Do you still have any of the repair kits you could send?
Thank you for this article.
I purchased the 8 rib option of the belt that Eduardo linked to: https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p650058/940PJ/370J-Major-Brand-Poly-V-Multiple-Ribbed-Belt-940mm/37-inch-Length/product_info.html.
I was sent a PIX – X’ceed PJ 940 with 8 ribs. Although the length is the same as the original Gates 370J, the width is slightly narrower (I have no reason to believe this would be a problem), the height (or thickness) is visibly thicker (which is a problem because it will rub against the belt cover – I think you could modify the belt cover to overcome this). It is difficult to determine the size and profile of the ribs but a deal breaker for me is the finish on the ribs. The Gates belt’s ribbed surface is visibly smooth and easily identifiable as a rubber compound. The PIX belt’s ribbed surface is visibly rough (like fine sand paper).
I fitted the belt, adjusted the tension, left the belt cover off and tested it by turning the pedals by hand. Unfortunately the noise level was way above my comfort zone. Comparatively the Gates belt whispers. I would hazard a guess its likely due to the rough surface of the ribs and possibly the size and profile.
I have raised this with Simply Bearings and await a response.
Just to clarify, you replaced the tensioner M5 12mm bolt with an M6 16mm? I have a Kickr 2014, I accidentally bent the 2.5mm tension adjustment screw and the M5 12mm bolt that holds the tensioner in place and I’m looking to replace them. I might try using a flanged head bolt and washer like you did.
M6 is on the pulley. M5 on the tensioner. Replaced with like for like size.
Sorry, I’m a little confused. You state: “The pulley is held on with a M6 12mm bolt and the tensioner is held in place with a M5 12mm bolt.”
But then you later say: “Both the M6 and M5 bolt have washers that are deformed during fitting. In order to avoid this the replacement bolts were ordered, M6 x 12mm and M5 x 16mm with flanged heads and a larger M6 18mm diameter washer.”
Don’t you mean an M5 x 12mm for the tensioner?
A longer bolt was used in this instance.
Hi, great article. I’d be interested in a kit if you have any left? Thanks
I think I have two left. Will check in the morning.
Hi,
I also have a broken kickr 18 and would like to get hold of a repair kit if possible?
Great article and comments. Have dismantled the kick. The key and pulley appear and feel difficult to separate. Black powder/dust was found when covers were taken off. Presume this is from the belt and suggests there is some movement in the pulley when at speed to generate the rubbing against the belt.However no movement is evident on inspection. Any suggestions?
Do you have any kits left please?
Great article and comments/follow up. Opened up my wahoo to find black dust from the belt no doubt suggesting that the pully wheel is moving and causing the vibration. However the key seems to be in tight and the pully hard to remove. Will grab one of the kits off you if you have any left please. Many thanks.
Great Article! Thank you!
Unfortunately I broke the tensioner bolt 🙁 anyone know which bolt it is exactly so I can buy a replacement?
Is it the bolt that clamps the unit to the kicker, or the the super thin bolt that adjusts the tension?
I have the same bearing issue on the kickr Snap. I am having trouble getting the bearings out/replaced. I have one stuck on the shaft and the other even after putting it in the freezer for a few hours didn’t drop into the housing fully.
Any thoughts? It is clear at least the non fly wheel end bearing was buggered.
Hi,
If you have any kits left please email me 🙂
So nobody found a belt that is 100% compatible ?
Hi, do you have any sets left? Would be keen to grab one, thanks
I have a couple left. Drop me an email phil ATTTTTTTT Unsponsored DOTTT co DOTTT uk
Great writeup thanks! Do you have any of your repair kits left?
Can you confirm bearings are same for previous models ?
I tensioned my belt as per vids but now noisy.
Great instructions. Thanks! I wanted to replace my bearings with skf and followed your instructions. Everything was fine until removing the pulley wheel. Mine is extremely tight. Tried to push with flat head screw drivers from behing but it immediately noticed marks on the soft aluminum. Didn’t want to push any further that might damage the wheel and decided to stop there. Some people mention a conventional crank puller but there is no thread inside the pulley wheel to mount it. maybe heating the pulley with a hairdryer could help but I’d like to hear what other options are there for the tight pulley wheel. Mine is a v5 2020 Kickr btw.
I wouldn’t bother just to change the bearings unless there’s a problem. Even then a two year warranty should cover you. I’d contact wahoo first and see how that goes. Good luck.
Hello my flywheel is also stuck. I try to Hammer it out, but it didn t move. Should i heat the bearging or did they use lockit ? Mine is à 2019 version kikr core.
Custom shaft/axle replacement kits with NSK 6003 bearing for Wahoo Kickr 4 2018+ on ebay (uk) guy in taiwan. Will require press fit equipment
Hi Garry have you ordered and fitted a new axle from this guy? If so, is it worth it. Better quality? My V4 is a write off until the axle’s replaced.
A bit late, but do you still have any of the bolts/keys to save me having to buy way more than i need?
Cheers
Hi. Yes I do.
Hi, good write up, I’ll be changing my bearings out during the week. Have you got a recommendation for bearing brand? Also if you’ve still got some bolts I’ll happily give you a fair price for them 😉
Cheers
Hi, cheers. Bearing wise I’m currently using Enduro bearings. But nay big name brand will be fine. Just make sure they come from an approved supplier. Plenty of fakes ones out there. I do have three of four bolt sets left.
Excellent! I have ordered some, do you want to email me your details and a price?
Thanks for the really useful article. I’m having the same issue having just bought a kikr from ebay a month or 2 ago. Would you be able to send me some of the bolts too (more than happy to pay) Would really appreciate it! 🙂
Hey thanks for the great write up. Do you still have any kits available ?
Would love to get my hands on a kit to fix mine as well. What is the best way to contact you?
Hi. I’m a bit late to this party but my kicker started grinding and I think your kit is what I need. Are any still available? Thanks Jason
Yes. I still have some.
Any chance I could get a kit sent out as well please?
Great news! Pls let me know how to contact you to arrange. Thanks.
Hi there, very grateful for your guide. My flywheel sees some lateral movement while in use, but would assume this is down to bad bearings (I guess the only way to find out is attempt a fix!). My belt is producing black dust upon touch – at what point would you consider replacing the belt opposed to cleaning?
If you’ve still got repair kits, I’d certainly appreciate you reaching out to arrange purchase.
The belts do create dust. I just clean by belt with a vacuum cleaner. I clean paint brush is also good to get in the tricky bits. I have a number of kits ready to go. They contain a stainless steel woodruff key, the M6 10.9 high tensile flanged bolt and a black stainless steel washer.
Hi. Great information here. Could I purchase a kit please? Cheers.
Interested to get your thoughts on my kickr. Here’s a link to the vid I posted on Reddit:
https://www.reddit.com/r/wahoofitness/comments/12jxxw5/squeaking_noise_where_belt_meets_wheel/
If I need your kit or if you have any other thoughts, I’d appreciate that. Wahoo just want to sell me a new one
I have an issue with my Kickr too, video from Reddit here: https://www.reddit.com/r/wahoofitness/comments/12jxxw5/squeaking_noise_where_belt_meets_wheel/
Let me know what you think? Appreciate your advice
Looks like there is a great deal of tension on the belt. My setups have all ended up with the bolt on the tensioner sitting half way. There also sounds like the belt may be full of rubber dust. It would be worth checking both of these and having another test.
Thanks, I have held a slightly damp sponge on the inside of the belt but it’s super clean. Never had a problem in 3 years until the last week. Belt doesnt feel tight but I might adjust to see. Thanks,
Some of the aerospace stuff like I used may also help.
Thanks, just spray on and wipe off? Leave the belt on?
Spray on and wipe off excess.
Thanks so much! So, just loosen the pulley bolt, lower with the long tension bolt, then retighten the pulley bolt? Sorry, I’m not too hands on with these things!
That’s it.
Hi there,
Wow! This is a long thread…
I’m in the same boat as so many others ☹
Metallic clicking sound, can see the key well back in pulley – seems firmly set. Any of the key & bearing kits left? Thank you.
A pretty common problem. I do have some sets available.
Do you need 2 x 6001z and 2x 6003rs to repair a wahoo kickr v5 (bearings are the same as 18)? After reading the instructions, I realized that one 6001z bearing was enough.
Thanks!
Great write up. Having the similar issues with my Kickr 18. Do you happen to still have any kits?
Great resource. Lots of really good info. Thanks.
I am also having issues with noise in my Kickr 18. Do you still have some kits available?
Cheers
I do – EBay. Happy to post out in the UK.
Thanks. Can you send to New Zealand? I tried ordering on eBay but it said you don’t ship to New Zealand? Thanks
Hi, It would cost too much and I couldn’t guarantee that it would arrive either quickly or at all. You should be able to source the parts there. The only difficult on is the key. You could get a mild steel one easily though rather than a stainless one.
No worries. Thanks for your help and you great posts on repairing Kickr’s. Cheers
Thanks so much, works a treat with new bearings in, however it took forever to get my key out as it was the production run after the loose keys, so they made sure it wasn’t going anywhere. ended up drilling it out and getting a new key!
You still have a repair kit. Broke the tension screw… 🙁