Repairing a paddle shaft is very similar to creating a set of split paddles. I have a pair of Werner Players that were pretty much brand new but had snapped near the right hand blade. The technique I use here could be used to repair the shaft on pretty much any paddle and could even be used to shorten or adjust the feather on a sound paddle.
Daggers Contour Ergo Outfitting and Wavepsorts 2012 Whiteout Outfitting are essentially the same design. Below is a closer look at the elements that make up the Dagger Outfitting in a 2013 Dagger Jitsu. This will be the same system used in all non-creeking boats with the Contour system.
A few shots of some of my DIY Stuff Sacks.
The spinnaker stuff sacks weigh well under 5g each.
This is one of the tarps I have made using superlight spinnaker material. I managed to get an end of a roll of fabric that would have cost over £70 per metre.
Dry tops and dry suits as well as other “dry” kit are treated with a DWR finish. DWR stands for Durable Water Repellency. This is the treatment that makes water form as droplets or beads on your kit. When this starts to wear off (which it will) your kit will start to soak up the water. This may not make it through the laminated layers of the fabric but it will comprimise the breathability and effectiveness of your kit. This is known as “wetting out”.
When it comes to moving your seat or adjusting other parts of your kayak you need a range of tools to do the job. Most kayak manufacturers tend to use a range of screws, allen bolts and security Torx bolts to fasten the bits and bobs to your boat.
It’s hit the time of year here in the UK that it is time to put the drysuit away and dig the shorts out. It’s been a long and wet winter/spring so the kit has taken a fair bit of abuse.
I’m currently the proud owner of a Palm Spark Surface Immersion suit. When I say proud I mean it. The suit has been a superb choice and has served me well over the last year+. It’s now time to get it ready for storage. Continue reading
I found this in the archives! I think an updated version is called for.
I have tried to gather together a number of good outfitting examples. They are intended to be a source of ideas or possible options that you may want to consider for your kayak. The best way to look at the information is as a pick & mix. Experiment and take the elements that work best for you and discard the rest.
Getting the outfitting of your boat correct may happen with the first go but more than likely will require both time and patience.
Getting the outfitting of any piece of kit is pretty critical. We take lots of care and attention padding out our boats but often neglect the kayaking helmets we wear. How many times have you’ve been on a river or at your local play wave and have seen paddlers whos:
Hats move during a capsize
Foreheads are exposed
I have seen many examples and have often wondered how these paddlers would fare if there head were to be struck by rocks whilst they were capsized. It’s going to hurt at the least.
One of the most important things you can do to your kit is write your contact details in/on them. The blue Dagger G Ride was lost after a solo mission down the River Clough but was returned to its happy owner (see pic) three years later after being found tucked away in a garden near the river.
I tend to use a waterproof marker and write my email address, post code and contact number on my boat and air bags. Many newer pieces of kit – throwbags, PFDs etc come supplied with a tag or area specifically for your contact details.
One the really great things about Prijon and Eskimo river running and creeking boats was the fact that they all came supplied with a bow air bag. That bag played an important role keeping water out of the void between the full plate footrest and the bow.